Before we talk about the actual units, let's talk about color temperature. Color temperature, in the film industry, is measured on the Kelvin scale, named after British physicist William Kelvin. The scale is based of of his findings when he heated a block of carbon. The block changed colors from a warm red glow to a bright yellow and eventually to a screaming hot blue color. Read about it here: http://www.3drender.com/glossary/colortemp.htm.
We use the Kelvin scale to measure the color temperature of a light. Film has two effect color temperature ratings, 3200ºK(tungsten/indoor film) and 5500ºK(daylight film). Now, the lower the number the "warmer" the color looks and the higher the number the "cooler" the color looks. Indoor lighting is estimated around 3200ºK and daylight is estimated somewhere around 5500ºK, hence the color ratings of the film stock. An important thing to note is that the Kelvin scale is NOT LINEAR. This means that a 200º change in color temperature at the higher end of the scale is not the same color shift in the lower end of the scale. The lower you go on the scale, the more dramatic each degree change is. I will address this idea when I talk about each light source.
HMIs:
HMI stand for Mercury, Medium Gap Arc, and Iodine. These are a daylight balanced light, so they are 5500ºK. There are many issues with HMIs, but I will only be addressing the color temperature and light quality issues. HMIs are gas discharge light, meaning an electrical arc is used within the bulb to pressurize the vapors inside the bulb which provide the light. There is, however, a shift in color temperature based on the life of the bulb and the integrity of the gasses inside... meaning the temperature will change over time. This is just one of the many problems with HMI units, however, there are steps you can take to compensate for these changes.

HMIs burn at about 70% light energy, 30% heat, translating into a lot of light per watt. They are very efficient lights with a lot output in contrast with a low(er) amperage draw. But there is often an unnatural cast to these lights. They often have a sharp specular reflectance on skin, causing an even bigger problem on oily skin. We have gotten used to seeing them light actors in movies, but there is still a subconscious disconnect to our eyes that we may or may not be aware of. This is the result of the electronically created light source. An HMI's light is the result of an electrical arc, an artificially created light source, which our eyes pick up on even if we don't recognize it. There is an inorganic characteristic to HMI light that has the potential to be exaggerated on skin tones.
Fluorescents:
Fluorescents are also gas discharge lamps created by an arc of electricity. Again, this inorganic light quality can be seen under these lamps. Now, they do come in a variety of color temperatures(3200ºK, 4700ºK, 5500ºK and more in between) but there is also a risk of a green or magenta shift in them. This is due to their interrupted nanometer spectrum( http://www.cameraguild.com/technology/kelvin.htm). This artificially created light source attributes to why people sometimes feel uncomfortable or even develop headaches with long exposure under fluorescent lighting. Again, power cycles and the hertz rate and voltage factor in to this problem as well.

Some people use fluorescent fixtures as fill light to raise the ambient light in the shadow areas, however, you run the risk of an extra shadow(any time you add a light, you add a set of shadows) as well as the risk of an artificial looking fill light. However, these lights can be used to great effect to simulate a computer screen glow, a monitor glow, overhead fluorescents or other types of artificial illumination.
LED:

High Intensity Discharge Lights:

Tungsten:
Tungsten in the oldest, and in my opinion best looking light used today. Tungsten is 3200ºK and used for indoor film. The word "tungsten" refers to the material used as the filament for electric light bulbs. If you want some more information on the mineral, please click here: http://periodic.lanl.gov/elements/74.html If you would like to learn about the electric light bulb, please visit the following links:
•http://inventors.about.com/library/inventors/bllight2.htm
•http://www.howitworks.net/how-light-bulbs-work.html
•http://home.howstuffworks.com/question151.htm

I try to use tungsten as much as possible, though it is not always the most efficient, because I feel that I can get better results and can control the lights easier without having to worry about any light quality issues.
PhillM tip-of-the-day:
If you need to scrim down a softlite, just get a 1K scrim and lay it on top of the safety screen of the soft light lower the light level. However, be careful- because the softlite is a bounced light, the scrims won't have the exact same effect of your foot candles(there is only a slight discrepancy) as they would if you were using them in the traditional sense.
No comments:
Post a Comment